Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Wall

An Eye For an Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just The Fad V-easy 3
Panacea Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remedy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk The Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,156 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 17, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Tall climb with the full top out. Start in the crack and go slightly right to under the roof. Go right of the roof straight up to a ledge. Find a crack system on your right (look to your right for the rap chains) and take it to the top.

Location

Crack system between "Remedy" and "Eye for an Eye".

Protection

Solid rack up to #4 C4. Rap chains to the right and down from the top out.

Photos

Alex Zucca
University Heights
 
Alex Zucca   University Heights
 
After the second roof section, this gets a little spicy and really chossy/mossy.

If you plan to have someone follow or TR this route, place a #3 cam in the horizontal crack on the wall in front of you when you top out on lead. Look DOWN and to the right and you will see the chains. Make an anchor there as you hang on the #3 and then lower down. The #3 seriously helps with rope drag and protects your follower. It's still gonna suck for your follower to downclimb unprotected to the chains after they clean the #3. May 28, 2017
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
You haven't seen it in its full glory. I'll have to go back to get a picture. May 26, 2012
Tradiban  
 
That's how I originally finished this, before the bees nest was there. Were there bees on it? Check my pic on the main page to see it in it's full glory. May 26, 2012
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
You can take the early exit left and hit the chains for An Eye For An Eye. I wouldn't suggest it, as the route gets pretty damn awesome by that roof. Also, there was a huge and funky bee or wasp or hornet hive thing by the anchors, so we took the overhanging crack left of the anchors. 5.7ish stuff on junky rock with decent pro. Fantastic route in my book. May 25, 2012
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
That's what I thought. Didnt look 5.8 at all at the beginning. It was pretty much blank on either side of the crack for like 15 feet. I'll give it a go when Paul goes back there with me. Jun 23, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Straight up the crack bro. Definite technical crux at the start. "Old School" 5.8 Jun 23, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
The beginning of this looked a bit pumpy for a 5.8.

How did you start this out Nick? Jun 23, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Sure this has been done but I gave it a name, please let me know if it is known as something different.

Be careful of some loose rock higher up. We rapped off the chains to the right of the route with room to spare on a 70m, looked like a 60m would make it but barely. Jun 17, 2010