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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Ryan Lauck, Erik Gillis, Janson Evans
Page Views: 766 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Lauck on Jun 15, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Great jams the whole way but plenty of other things to grab onto if you dont like to get your hands dirty. After the crack pinches shut, your difficulties are behind you. You can stop at a ledge at the top of the "cheeks" or keep going for another 30 feet of 5th class along the blocky arete to the top of the formation where there are better anchor options.

Location

The middle of the long eastern-most wall, look for the full moon.

Protection

Protection is a pretty good idea. The yawning fissure eats hand to fist size pieces. Plenty of smaller cracks and a couple large blocks to sling at the top of the formation for an anchor.

Walk off to the North.

Photos

Ryan Lauck
Farmington, UT
 
Ryan Lauck   Farmington, UT
 
We still need to clean up some brush right at the base and maybe knock a couple more loose blocks off (one was poised right above my belayers head and I didnt dare touch it). Erik wants to name all the rest of the routes on the wall after farts. Jun 16, 2010
Janson
 
Janson  
 
Great starter climb for those not looking to be too exposed, great find ryan. Jun 16, 2010