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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ryan Lauck, Erik Gillis, Spencer Parkin
Page Views: 191 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ryan Lauck on Jun 14, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Enjoy the shade ...and stop whining about the approach.

Follows a line of good jugs and incut edges up a slightly overhanging pillar of solid quartzite.

Work your way through the techy start past the first two bolts. Hug the pillar as the grade hits the steeper crux and trust that more big holds await to help clip the third bolt. There is an intrusion of quartz near the top that looks chossy from the ground but is some of the best rock and sports cool knobs.


The first (and only at this time) bolted route on the East face of the main "house" crag/boulder. Its on the South end about 12 feet from the Southeast corner.


3 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor at the top. Bring a stick clip or a good spotter for the first bolt if you dont feel confident at the grade.


Taylor Gemperline  
For the area this is actually a decent climb! Just make sure you climb straight up the bolt line and don't cheat. Sep 16, 2016
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
nice man! ok ok i was a little whiny about the approach :P this is a cooler route than it looks at first. Jun 14, 2010