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Glass Balls
5.7+,
Sport, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 155
votes
FA: Steve Sangdahl and Jack Klein 1982 (Trad lead)
Wisconsin
> Central
> Necedah (Petenw…
> 06. Hell Wall (aka Qu…
Description
Named for the ball-bearing-like lichen found on the arete, and originally led as a trad route with very little (if any) protection - this route has largely been ignored since its first ascent. Because of its odd position on a sloping arete, even toprope ascents have been considered somewhat sketchy. Recently, with the blessing of the first-ascensionist, five bolts and anchors have appeared making this an enjoyable sport route in a classic position.
The upper anchors were placed to facilitate rappelling off the
06. Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall) (west/climber's left) side of the arete, rather than rappelling or lowering directly down the crest of the arete (a disconcerting proposition at best). Even topropers might be well-advised to make use of the protection bolts as directionals given the sharp and sloping nature of the arete.
Location
At the south end of Hell Wall scramble to the notch and look left.
Protection
Five bolts and anchors.
![Climb the slab. Should clean up nicely.]()
[Hide Photo] Climb the slab. Should clean up nicely.
![Justin all smiles as he tops out onto the best belay ledge in Wisconsin.]()
[Hide Photo] Justin all smiles as he tops out onto the best belay ledge in Wisconsin.
![Alex soaking up the sun on Glass Balls.]()
[Hide Photo] Alex soaking up the sun on Glass Balls.
![This is directly above Quarry Wall. I accessed it from the river side of the cliff. Slab ever been climbed?]()
[Hide Photo] This is directly above Quarry Wall. I accessed it from the river side of the cliff. Slab ever been climbed?
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Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Waukesha, WI
La Crosse, WI
eldo sprngs, co
I was asked by 2 folks if it would be okay to add the bolts. I am okay with it for the following reasons.
Bolts are acceptable at Necedah. ( back then we avoided using them)
The climb is only 5.8 It is not a test piece by any means.
I don't own the frigging rock.
If it opens up a route for climbers of moderate abilities then that's great.
Ultimately it's up to the Wisconsin climbing community to decide what's best for this route .
I do remember the position on this route is superb. And the excellent ledge for the pre send rituals, if ya know what I mean . Sorry for the spew. But of course, now puke.
I do greatly appreciate being asked first thou. Thank you. Nov 29, 2016
Fort Collins, CO
Thanks for your blessing on this - the Wisconsin climbing community will benefit greatly. I think with the addition of the bolts, this is destined to become a classic. Leading this on gear must have been quite an interesting experience - pre-send rituals or not. Hopefully the bolts will give modern-day climbers the opportunity to contemplate what was a bold, impressive ascent.
Cheers,
James Nov 30, 2016
eldo sprngs, co
Stevens Point, WI
Fort Collins, CO
Sandy, UT
Lakewood, CO