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Routes in Északi Fal

Micimackó S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nagypapák Útja S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 72 ft
FA: unknown
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Shared By: Pal Pocsi on Jun 14, 2010
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Description

Seriously high first clip! Getting to it isn't too hard but then it's challenging pulling over it. The wall is a bit overhanging here but the hand holds are good luckily. The climbing above is solid and steady with a slab type feel at times.

After getting onto a ledge, the crux is figuring out how to get up the seemingly bare wall. It's a little less than vertical but feels very steep for the slabby type moves required to get up. Definitely the crux of the route. There's a good hand hold overhead and a little foot hold on the right.

This allows you to get high enough to grab a “thank God” hold on the far right side. A few more balancey moves and you're at the anchors. This route and Nagypapák Útja are both really stiffly graded and mentally taxing.

The guidebook lists the route as V (UIAA rating), which corresponds roughly to a 5.7 in Yosemite grade. I think it's mighty stiff so I posted it as 5.7+

Location

Micimackó is found left of center on Északi Fal. Look for the white paint marking the route as a V grade.

Protection

Bolts to a two bolt anchor.

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