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Routes in Északi Fal

Micimackó S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nagypapák Útja S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 72 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15 total · 0/month
Shared By: Pal Pocsi on Jun 14, 2010
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Description

Nagypapák Útja is a very cool route that requires a number of different types of climbing. Personally, I think it's a bit of a sandbag but the guidebook lists this route as V+ (roughly 5.8 in Yosemite grading).

The first bolt is kind of high and subsequent bolts are pretty far apart. Very steady difficulty the whole way. The first two clips are pretty straightforward and even have some fun mini stemming. The handholds are great as long as you keep moving your feet up.

Then there is a small ledge you end up on under a good sized bulge. The bolt below is a good ways down. I think if you blow the move going over the bulge, the fall would be at least 15 feet. Luckily there is a good horizontal crack at this point which accepts a red tricam perfectly. Clearing this bulge was the crux of the route for me.

After getting above the bulge, you are into the safety of a little dihedral. Make your way up to the top of the dihedral and sling the little tree. Getting past it is another crux. While it is super tempting to use the tree because handholds are a little sparse, it is possible to get above by going out left onto the arete.

Above the tree, the route is a little bit easier and reminiscent of the beginning but definitely not trivial. It's a mentally and physically challenging route.

Location

You can find Nagypapák Útja towards the middle of Északi Fal. Look for the little corner right below a small tree. Route goes up in a straight line to this and continues up to anchors which are just barely visible from the ground. It is marked with white paint as a V+ route.

Protection

Bring standard draws for the bolts, a tricam or cam for the horizontal crack, and a sling for the tree. Two bolt anchor up top.

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