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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Les Ellison & Chris Noble in1980
Page Views: 1,884 total · 20/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Jun 13, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Great route on excellent rock. Exciting traversing and route finding.

P 1 - Ascend a stepped right facing corner and finger crack for 140' to a belay.(5.9)

P 2 - Climb a beautiful hand crack. Traverse right under the first roof. Move up to the second roof and continue right around it to a hanging belay or continue higher to a narrow ledge. Great, improbable pitch. (5.9) Les at his best!

P3 - Follow ramps and corners leftward to a belay near the top. (5.7)

P4 - Scramble to the top. (5.5)


Hike up the talus to a point below the left side of the long roof above.


Standard rack, mostly small & medium cams, many runners.


Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
As a followup, I was messaged by a friend who has climbed the route and it seems like I was on route. The bolt I circled on the right in the pic is for "Heart of Gold." It seems I was, in fact, on route, and that the traverse unfolds as you commit to it. My friend confirmed that the "hand crack" mentioned here and in the Ruckman guide is an inaccurate description. From what I could tell the crack leading up to the traverse was a clean fingers/tips crack.

Enjoy! Jul 24, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
This page would benefit from a topo! I had a picture of the Ruckman topo and the MP description of the pitches. From a failed attempt at the route here's my take:

Finding P1 can be confusing if you just have the description here which lists the first pitch as a right facing corner. Climb up the gully (there was a finger of snow we had to work around) until you come to a bolt for the belayer. I'm pretty sure this marks the start of the route. Across from the bolt, on the wall, you'll see a small left facing corner. Climb this to get to a right facing corner comprised of a set of steps.

This is where I got off, I think. I was looking for a "beautiful handcrack" to mark the start of P2. I found a beautiful finger/tips crack below a huge/complex series of roofs just left of center on the wall. The tips crack looked hard, with a very sketchy, ill-protected traverse possibly going off to the right. It looked extremely committing with very little gear. I think I had gone too far up the right/corner staircase, and was maybe too far left on the wall. We bailed off a nut and some cordelette.

I could not see a "beautiful handcrack" anywhere. Perhaps it's been filled with plants/dirt?

Can someone PM me (or better yet, post here) and let me know if I was on route, or had gone too far? I'd really like to complete the route.
Jul 23, 2014
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Easy to link the last 2 pitches with one 60m rope. The 2nd pitch is the most unique I've done in the Wasatch. Beware of loose sections on pitch 3 and at the top out. Jul 8, 2012