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Wall of Horns

5.10b/c R, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 21 votes
FA: Shannon Stegg - 1981
Alabama > Cherokee Rock V… > Sun Wall

Description

An unusual route in that it doesn't follow a plumb line, Wall of Horns is a thought-provoking climb through juggy but overhanging conglomerate. But first, you've got to get through that long and spicy traverse.

Starting on the left side of a wide crack, climb about 10-15' to a point where there's enough positive hands and feet to begin moving left across the face. Continue the delicate traverse another 20' or so left and up to gain the namesake horns that will lead you to the anchors at the top.

Location

In the Whipping Post area; starts on the wall across from Dreamscape left of a prominent crack and right of the stemming (Somethingness, 5.9+) or face only (Nothingness, 5.12) line. 

Protection

Marginal. This would be an R/X-rated lead and is best done as a toprope. Wearing a helmet is recommended, as a fall during the traverse will result in a long pendulum. Bolted anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wall of Horns
[Hide Photo] Wall of Horns
Not the best photo in the world, but it does show nearly the entire line.
[Hide Photo] Not the best photo in the world, but it does show nearly the entire line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BJ Null
 
[Hide Comment] What is the line that goes straight up the stemmed column? May 4, 2017
Luke J
[Hide Comment] Hey BJ, the stem route following the same bolts as "nothingness" has been referred to by a name called "somethingness". I've never seen this name online, but heard about it at the crag. It's rated at a 5.9. Oct 12, 2017
Graham Fillo
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b/c R
[Hide Comment] This route can be set as a top rope by scrambling up to the right of "%#@!". The scramble is pretty sketchy as there is a possibility for a really bad fall into the crevasse below. Once you are on top of the block, walk/scramble a short distance forward and to the left. It's helpful to leave a friend at the base of the climb to help find the anchors. The really sketchy part is actually setting the top rope. You will have to shimmy down a short blank slab that is angled toward the face of the climb. There are no bolts or trad placements to set a temporary anchor. Once you scooch to the face there is a horn you can place your foot on to keep yourself from falling off. Lean over the edge and clip the anchor. I don't recommend attempting to rappel this unless you have some sort of dynamic tether and an aid ladder to help you get on the face. Apr 23, 2023