[Hide Comment] The new guidebook gives this a 5.9.

A head-sized loose jug with a big white chalk X on it prevents the climber from taking the path of least resistance here now, making the climb's hardest moves more technical. Maybe this has changed since the current description was written? When this wobbler falls, the grade could change again, depending on the fracture line.

I found this to be slightly more challenging than Sidesaddle 5.9 next to it, not a full grade harder, but certainly on par to me.

[edit: the guidebook grade is actually 5.9R, I believe that's for the direct start as opposed to traversing from the right to clip the first bolt, which makes it a safer] Mar 11, 2013

[Hide Comment] This is definitely the easiest route of the grotto/ort wall. Climbed it a couple of weeks ago and did not see an X; did not find loose rock. Perhaps the rock felt already. (IMHO 5.9 sounds like a bit much for this one) May 13, 2013

[Hide Comment] If the loose rock is gone from the crux, it's probably more 5.8 than 5.9. May 14, 2013

[Hide Comment] There are three blocks marked with chalk Xs on them currently (Sep 1 2014) which make some of the moves pretty tricky if you avoid them all. I think this thing now deserves a solid 5.9 :-) Sep 2, 2014

[Hide Comment] There were two rocks marked with X's yesterday (3/27). The first was definitely loose, but the second seemed pretty good. If both of these are avoided, this is at least 5.9. Mar 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] We stared at this thing for a while and could not figure out how it warrants an R rating. Seems just as safe as Color Coded Dec 9, 2020