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Routes in Ort Wall
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Clip, Clip, Wow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Color Coded Quickdraws S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cowboy Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Geronimo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ort Man Complex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sidesaddle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft |
| FA: | Matt Schlueter and Daniel Forbes, May 2004 |
| Page Views: | 195 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Camuti on Jun 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Please do not place any new bolts or fixed hardware at Table Mountain, and minimize our impact here. Climbing is open, with restrictions: private property.
Details
- December 2014 for all Table Mountain areas: Tom Addison writes, "The sign was posted by the Bureau of Reclamation. After conversation with the Bureau, the Access Fund will be reaching out to the climbing community and asking us not to place any bolts or install any fixed hardware on Table Mountain cliffs for the time being. Furthermore, please refrain from camping,having fires, or establishing new use trails in the area. The Bureau has expressed a number of concerns, but the signs are specifically a reaction to their concerns about possible negative affects of climbing and fixed hardware on a sensitive bat species. We'll put out more information as the situation develops. "
Climbing access has historically been open, but parts are on private property. Please be respectful of property owners.
- July 2015: Gold Wall notice from the Access Fund:
"Earlier this spring, the private landowner of Gold Wall outside of Sonora reached out to the climbing community and expressed liability concerns after hearing excessive yelling from climbers at the cliff. Access Fund and local climbers immediately set up a site visit to discuss his concerns.
After a series of conversations, its clear that the landowner recognizes the recreational value of the cliff, and he has no immediate plans to close the area. But he does have some very specific and reasonable requests for visiting climbers, including:
No music and keep all noise to a minimum
Respect other users and consider climbing elsewhere to avoid overcrowding
No fires high fire danger area
No overnight use
No littering pack in, pack out
We have installed a sign with these simple rules at the entrance to this section of private land from adjacent US Bureau of Reclamation lands.
Please remember that climbing on private land is a privilege, not a right. Help us preserve access to Gold Wall by following these simple rules and encouraging other climbers to do the same."
Update: Dec 2016. Gold Wall continues to be private property, please continue to follow the above rules and keep noise levels down.
Photos
- No Photos -
Sacramento, CA
A head-sized loose jug with a big white chalk X on it prevents the climber from taking the path of least resistance here now, making the climb's hardest moves more technical. Maybe this has changed since the current description was written? When this wobbler falls, the grade could change again, depending on the fracture line.
I found this to be slightly more challenging than Sidesaddle 5.9 next to it, not a full grade harder, but certainly on par to me.
[edit: the guidebook grade is actually 5.9R, I believe that's for the direct start as opposed to traversing from the right to clip the first bolt, which makes it a safer] Mar 11, 2013
Sacramento, CA
South Lake Tahoe
Fort Collins, CO