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Routes in Ort Wall

Clip, Clip, Wow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Color Coded Quickdraws S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowboy Up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Geronimo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ort Man Complex S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sidesaddle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Matt Schlueter and Daniel Forbes, May 2004
Page Views: 137 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tim Camuti on Jun 11, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Please do not place any new bolts or fixed hardware at Table Mountain, and minimize our impact here. Climbing is open, with restrictions: private property. Details

Description

Route starts a few steps up the talus and trends left to the Sidesaddle anchors using big holds and easy steps over and up.

Location

Furthest right line of 3 bolts on the Ort Wall, shares an anchor with Sidesaddle.

Protection

3 bolts and anchor carabiners for chains.

Photos

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Pat Hastings
Fort Collins, CO
Pat Hastings   Fort Collins, CO
There were two rocks marked with X's yesterday (3/27). The first was definitely loose, but the second seemed pretty good. If both of these are avoided, this is at least 5.9. Mar 28, 2015
Jason Ogasian
South Lake Tahoe
  5.9
Jason Ogasian   South Lake Tahoe
  5.9
There are three blocks marked with chalk Xs on them currently (Sep 1 2014) which make some of the moves pretty tricky if you avoid them all. I think this thing now deserves a solid 5.9 :-) Sep 2, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
5.9
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
5.9
If the loose rock is gone from the crux, it's probably more 5.8 than 5.9. May 14, 2013
Leo Ramirez
  5.8
Leo Ramirez  
  5.8
This is definitely the easiest route of the grotto/ort wall. Climbed it a couple of weeks ago and did not see an X; did not find loose rock. Perhaps the rock felt already. (IMHO 5.9 sounds like a bit much for this one) May 13, 2013
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
5.9
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
5.9
The new guidebook gives this a 5.9.

A head-sized loose jug with a big white chalk X on it prevents the climber from taking the path of least resistance here now, making the climb's hardest moves more technical. Maybe this has changed since the current description was written? When this wobbler falls, the grade could change again, depending on the fracture line.

I found this to be slightly more challenging than Sidesaddle 5.9 next to it, not a full grade harder, but certainly on par to me.

[edit: the guidebook grade is actually 5.9R, I believe that's for the direct start as opposed to traversing from the right to clip the first bolt, which makes it a safer] Mar 11, 2013