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A Really, Really Bad Idea

5.7, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 0.6 from 5 votes
FA: Nate Kutcher & Michael Dvorak, 1997.
Wisconsin > Central > Necedah (Petenw… > 11. 30 Degree Wall

Description

The Ryan Hansen guide book says: "Try this really, really bad idea by climbing the face of a lone pinnacle."

Location

Route to the right of the 30 degree wall.

Protection

May be mixed?

Chip Bush adds:
Mixed; two bolts, no anchors at top; smaller cam placements (.75 or so) to reduce deck capacity. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

RIP, jug. This was up/left of 1st hanger
[Hide Photo] RIP, jug. This was up/left of 1st hanger
Really bad idea.
[Hide Photo] Really bad idea.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eric Mack
 
[Hide Comment] Loose rock above/left of 1b finally came down as of 10/10/2017. Doubt this is still a 5.7... definitely still A Really, Really Bad Idea though. Oct 12, 2017
Chip Bush
Madison, Wi
 
[Hide Comment] The second bolt is a spinner, and there is a semi attached boulder on top of this route that flexed when I tried to set an anchor cam. Although I did end up rapping off of it, it will likely blow if used in any significant capacity for pro or anchoring. Downclimbing is most likely the safest option, and with clean landings and a pretty easy escape down climb off to the right, this route may be more suited as a high ball boulder. There are two suitable spots to place pro after the 1st bolt and after the 2nd bolt, but there is still a large capacity for decking, despite easy climbing, and poor anchor placements at the top. Not a very good climb and not a very good idea, but I mean if you’re into that kind of thing then get it. May 20, 2018