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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Erik Gillis, Ryan Lauck
Page Views: 868 total · 9/month
Shared By: Erik S. Gillis on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

I gave this one 4 stars for the area. Honestly I would probably give it 3 stars compared to other quartzite climbs i have done(like in Rock Canyon). The draw back of this one is that it is in the sun and its a long hike to get there. Start just right of the overhanging area. There i a small dihedral starting about 15-20 ft up. This is the climb. Start underneath the roof and climb into the dihedral. Clip the first bolt and continue up until you clip the third bolt. From here it is all trad until you get the chain anchors at the top. Crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt just getting into the dihedral. Watch out it is steeper than it looks. However, the climbing eases at the top. Cheers

Location [Edit]

As I said it is just right of the Overhang on the main crag. You will see it, it is an obvious dihedral and you will see the bolt line in it.

Protection [Edit]

Bring medium to small cams. I placed two medium sized ones before the first bolt and then 2 small ones(finger sized) on the face up above the third.

Photos

Ryan Lauck
Farmington, UT
Ryan Lauck   Farmington, UT
Me wearing a bikini is your motivation to send - whether thats positive or negative reinforcement is up to you!

We had hoped this line would go entirely on gear, but your last good piece is at your feet when you enter the dihedral and you might face a ground fall if you blew the crux moves. The bolt protects them well now. Jun 10, 2010
steve lindsay
  5.10b/c
steve lindsay  
  5.10b/c
For Davis County a good route. I believe it is to the LEFT of the overhang. Crux for me was coming out of the corner out onto the face (between bolts two and three) . I showered my wife with hundreds (literally) of box elder bugs as I brushed them out of cracks and off ledges. I would rate it 10c-d not 11... Protection description is right on, BD C4 goldilocks off the ground, C3, then the 3 bolts then a few more placements to the top. Oct 19, 2010

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