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Routes in Practice Wall

A Happy Ending S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Acrophobiacs Anonymous S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Another One Fights the Rust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
BDSM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beta Spewer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creeping Elegance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crescendo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dragon's Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragon's Tail T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Handout, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kate's 1st Trad Lead T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Low Exposure S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Foxx S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shawty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Rock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short and Sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabalito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slither and Squeeze T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Smear Tactics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet and Sour T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yu Stin Ki Pu S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Skip Wolfe, Mark Ryan - 2005
Page Views: 1,454 total, 16/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This short climbs has an easy bottom to a crux just before the chains. Climb past two bolts to the anchors using large edges until the crux which has thinner hands and feet.

Location

Between Sweet and Sour 5.5 (Trad) and Acrophobiacs Anonymous 5.4 (Sport)

Protection

2 bolts to rappel rings.

Photos

Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
Practice wall in general is great for newbies, but this section (Kate's 1st, Acrophobics, Stin Ki Pu and Sweet and Sour) is great for teaching on the fly. Strong leaders would have no trouble at all soloing any of these routes, so it's a great place for newbies to practice their lead belays. Took a group of friends including one first time climber to the Gorge, taught her to belay in 10 minutes so I could put draws on Acrophobics then it became her first lead . She quickly followed that with a flash of Yu Stin Ki Pu. Jul 13, 2014