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Routes in Practice Wall

A Happy Ending S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Acrophobiacs Anonymous S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Another One Fights the Rust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
BDSM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beta Spewer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creeping Elegance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crescendo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dragon's Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragon's Tail T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Handout, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kate's 1st Trad Lead T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Low Exposure S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Foxx S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shawty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Rock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short and Sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabalito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slither and Squeeze T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Smear Tactics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet and Sour T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yu Stin Ki Pu S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Sierra Jones, Mark Ryan - 2005
Page Views: 877 total, 10/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Easier start gains a thin crimpy section near the top. This route tops out and the anchors are located above the lip on a large boulder. If you follow the bolt lines directly it is harder than 5.8, the 5.8 climbs just right of the bolt line then shifts back left at the top.

Location

This is one the short vertical wall that is the first thing you see at the Practice Wall, this is the right most sport route on that wal just left of Short and Sweet 5.7

Protection

3 bolts to Rappel Rings.

Photos

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Will Hipschman
Durham, NC
  5.10a
Will Hipschman   Durham, NC
  5.10a
The guidebook lists this at 5.9+. It's pretty polished though, so it felt harder, especially on hot sunny days. May 11, 2015
sgt.sausage
  5.9
sgt.sausage  
  5.9
Just like Shawty next to it, I thought this went at 5.9 ... but what do I know? Nov 1, 2013
claudmia
Raleigh, NC
  5.9-
claudmia   Raleigh, NC
  5.9-
Follow the bolt line: goes at 9-. Go right: easily an 8, but IMO off route. May 29, 2013