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Routes in Practice Wall

A Happy Ending S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Acrophobiacs Anonymous S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Another One Fights the Rust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
BDSM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beta Spewer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creeping Elegance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crescendo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dragon's Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragon's Tail T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Handout, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kate's 1st Trad Lead T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Low Exposure S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Foxx S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shawty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Rock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short and Sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabalito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slither and Squeeze T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Smear Tactics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet and Sour T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yu Stin Ki Pu S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Jared Hancock - 2004
Page Views: 691 total · 7/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

When you walk into The Practice Wall, this route is the squeeze chimney just right of the trad route Short and Sweet (5.7). The route identifier for this route lists it at 5.6 but there is no way it is that difficult. The RRG guidebook has it listed as 5.2 so I used that rating.

Step into the chimney and use huge feet and hands and climb up to the light above. Inside the chimney you have an abundance of holds for your feet and hands. The crux is the top out.

Location

Just right of Short and Sweet (5.7)

Protection

The route was originally free-soloed, when I climbed it I didn;t see any spots for gear.

Photos

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Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.2
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.2
Easy solo to gain top access. No off-width technique required. Chimney climb. Aug 13, 2015
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
nice off-width no gear. Apr 22, 2011