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Die-Agonal

5.11 PG13, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Davidson/Tim Coats
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow Area- H… > E Clear Creek > Winslow Wall > W Side

Description

Obvious thin crossing crack/grooves.
My recollection is it was more about face climbing than fingers. Climb it as a left to right system ?

Don't remember much. I think it was a one pitch climb with some thin moves in an area lacking some pro ? Bit of a challenging lead?

If someone has repeated this, fill in the details

Location

In between Black Douglas and Kingsnake.
Should be recognizable due to a fixed pin,
I think near the X where the two thin cracks cross.
Shares anchor with Black Douglas.

Protection

Two bolts off the deck, tips (blue tcu) to thin hands (bd #1) + finger sized nut. Doubles in .5 and .75 if you want the extra security!

Edit: The two fixed pins have been replaced with bolts. Details in comments below.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route now has an independent anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering.
[Hide Photo] Route now has an independent anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11 PG13
[Hide Comment] I followed Dan Foster on this line some ten or eleven years back. The climbing was good, maybe some hollow holds here and there, but otherwise technical. It is a serious lead. If your into the necky stuff it's a beautiful line. Jan 3, 2013
Paul Davidson
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Matches my memory JJ. Not for everyone. Apr 30, 2014
Chris Kalman
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today. I think it's definitely a good route. Beautiful rock, and consistently cool movement. I didn't place a single nut/wire, FWIW; just cams. Think singles from blue metolius #2 should do just fine.

Davidson/Coats -- would either of you mind if the fixed pins (there are two) were replaced with bolts, and one bolt added before the hard move to the start of the crack? This is an ankle-breaker as is (even if the pins hold, which... who knows if they would). I think with bolts it would be a 3 star route enjoyed by many people. I'd be happy to place them myself. Aug 1, 2020
Paul Davidson
  5.11
[Hide Comment] I don't recall us putting any iron on this. I'll have to check with Tim. Aug 3, 2020
Chris Kalman
  5.11
[Hide Comment] After talking with Paul a while back and getting his permission, I replaced the two old pins with bolts. The first bolt can be stickclipped (recommended). It's a bit of a run from the second bolt to the gear, but safe as long as the belayer is paying attention and doesn't have out a hero loop.

Following the bolts, I'd recommend a single rack from blue metolius up to #1. Could maybe use doubles in .75 or 1.

This is a really nice line! Kudos to Paul and Tim, and thanks for being open to swapping the pins for bolts. Apr 4, 2021
AMT
[Hide Comment] For the intrepid leader, it's worth noting that the hardest and thinnest moves on the route are well above the second bolt right before the gear placements. Chris is right that an attentive belay will probably keep you from fully decking. Apr 11, 2021
Jack Taylor
Issaquah, WA
 
[Hide Comment] I did not find anything dangerous about this route, save for a few crumbly holds and feet that made it exciting! My first piece of gear was either a .75 or #1 bd above the second bolt. Great movement, worth climbing if you are in the area. Apr 14, 2021