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Routes in Diarrhea Dome - South Face

Big Brown Eye, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Explosive Diahrrea T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Dike, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Svapada T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charles Cole, Dave Evans, Margie Floyd and Todd Gordon, 1985, FFA: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hansel, 1989
Page Views: 2,690 total, 30/month
Shared By: fubar on Jun 8, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The big, obvious quartz dike. Gaining the dike is 5.12, but easily aided (A0) on less-than-inspiring bolts. The rest of the climb (5.11) is a continuous, excruciating test of balance. Just as mental for the follower as the leader. Top out on Big Brown Eye or rap.

Protection

15-16 bolts.

Photos

D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
See photo not taken by me.

In this shot Mr. Gordon is just about in bolt placing position, maybe 3-5 feet to the right. We are talkin' EPIC placement. Without a doubt the hardest effort to place a bolt free, on the lead, I've ever seen and believe me, I would much rather brag about my own rad bolt placements than his.

Manly, IT IS!

See comment above. May 31, 2015
Dom Ngo
Canada
Dom Ngo   Canada
This was taken from the taco thread: supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

On the FA of the "Manly Dike," I placed a short bolt ladder onto the dike (I think I scoped it). Then it was Todd's turn. He went up and did this section (to a stance another 10 feet right) and HAD to place a bolt. Well, someone had to and he was there. It was the hardest bolt placement I have ever witnessed in my life. It took him 45 minutes to get the tools in hand as it was so steep (he kept saying "I can't drill here"). THEN it took another hour and a half to get the hole started (he had to keep dropping the tools to keep from tipping over backwards). THEN it took another hour to get the hole finished (whoa, he COULD drill there). Needless to say, he was pretty worked when he lowered off (Margy on the marathon belay).
After that it was Charles's turn. He had the (climbing not drilling) crux. He got a bolt in and after one fall cranked through and finished it up.
Later some fellows named Hensel and Woodward freed the start. Dec 19, 2011
Murf  
Is calling this one the "Best Dike Climb in the World" going too far? Likely it is, but you'll feel that way after finishing it; what a coup for Gordo, DEE, MFE, and CC. Mere mortals can do the easy aid to the dike. From there, increasing angle and shrinking foot holds lead to a distinct crux about 2/3's the way across. Regardless of guide book text, it is at least .11c and you'll probably only get one shot at it. It not, some big air awaits. As mentioned above, almost as big of a challenge awaits the second.

Most of the bolts could use an upgrade. 60m rope is perfect for the rap. Mar 7, 2011