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Routes in Sun Towers

Betty and Ray's Adventure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Claret Cup Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack of Don T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daffy Duck Pinnacle T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dovercourt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Icarus Line aka The Thin White Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Phaethon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shady Character T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Owls Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown offwidth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Waitin' For Wane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Skyeler Congdon- Onsight Solo
Page Views: 1,595 total, 17/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 7, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: Find the super sick looking, hands splitter in between Claret Cup Crack and Betty and Ray's Adventure. Traverse into the splitter from the left using a finger crack (5.9). Once in the splitter enjoy classic 5.8 hands for 30 feet.

You could keep keep going but might want to belay at the big ledge to have your belayer close for the sketchy face section.

P2: Walk left 20+ feet crossing Betty and Ray's... and begin up a steep face in the center. Trend left following the natural weakness (5.9 R). There is not a lot of gear (there might be, I wasn't really looking due to my style of ascent). Bring small stoppers! Belay once the angle eases and you find a good stance/ledge.

P3: Keep trending left to the top (5.6). I found that generally the steeper the rock the better quality. Depending where you belay this may be a short pitch.

This is a killer line, easily the best one up the Sun Tower so far.

Photos

We just ventured onto the mountain project site for the first time and saw your description, Skyler, of The Icarus Line. Since you questioned the first ascent history, I'll say that Lisa and I did do the first splitter pitch in the late '90s. We called it 'The Thin White Line'. I like your name better! Kudos to you for your bold style.
We've done some other lines over the years that others have repeated and named. We don't mind who names them, but if anyone does have questions on new routes here, they can always stop by the cabin and share what they've found. Thanks.... Dec 29, 2011
Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
It's possible, if not likely, that the first pitch of this route was climbed before me. It may have been done as a variation to Betty and Ray's. However, because I climbed a completely different line than Betty's, and because I was so psyched on the quality, I added it to this database.

But if anyone knows of an earlier ascent (or if we can get the Eakles on here), and wants to let me know, I'll happily change the FA info. I was surprised that the first pitch splitter was not in the guidebook.

I really doubt the second pitch, which I suggest is R rated has been done (but its possible). It's great face climbing, but not with much gear. It also may be easier than 5.9 (I was gripped!). Get on it and you'll be ready for Journey Home! Jun 12, 2010