Full Face (pitch 2 only)
Trad, 70 ft,
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: Art Gran & Ants Leemets 1962
> j. The Yellow Wall &…
Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Dick Williams, in his 2004 guide, recommends the second pitch of Full Face (or the last pitch of Lisa
, its neighbor 15-20 feet to the left) as a good way to finish Airy Aria
, and this is how I experienced it. It is a really nice little 5.6 roof climb, with an easy walk-off back to the Airy Aria
rap tree (two ropes required); alternatively it is an easy walk to the Ursula
or High Exposure
Climb up the featured face that is 20 feet below a right facing corner with several tiers of overhangs above. Get up to the first of the overhangs, and find a way to get your hands above the first overhang-- this to me was the trick to the climb. Once you have your hands above the first overhang, hand-traverse left to great holds from which you escape left to a stance, place gear, and make a couple more pumpy moves to a better stance. Then it's straight to the top on an obvious path through the heavily lichened face. The climbing here is cruiser and the pro is good, but it could use more traffic up top. As is true of its neighbor, Lisa, the last bit of the climbing is a bit dirty/licheny.
Starting at the GT ledge:
At the Airy Aria rap tree on the GT ledge, there is an overhang just 5 or 6 feet above the GT ledge. Walk climber's right about 20 feet until this low overhang ends. The right facing corner leading to an overhang at this location is the last pitch of Lisa
(5.6+). Another 15-20 feet to the right there is another right-facing corner about 20 feet above the GT ledge with tiered overhangs above the corner. This is the 2d pitch of Full Face.
It is very easy, after climbing Airy Aria, to do each of these pitches and walk back climber's left from the top to the Airy Aria rap tree.
Standard rack, there's plenty of pro where you need it.