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Slab Happy Pinnacle Left
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Slab Happy Pinnacle
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Dihardral, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Golden Years T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Say Dog T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Random Blessings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Silent Freeway, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Happy Pinnacle Left T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slab Happy Pinnacle, Center T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | FFA Mark Chapman and Art Higbee 2/74 |
| Page Views: | 1,165 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Jun 6, 2010 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15
Details
March 1- July 15
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure pagenps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive.
Description
Amazing quality , very physical route, one of the best at this grade I climbed in the Valley. Route has no bolts at all ( one pin at top of p2)
P1. Varied chimney with a lot of possibility of thin, medium and large pro in the corner. Belay just below the first roof.140 feet 5.8 sustain.
P2. Double Crack in the roof.The roof consists of two waves. Both climbed mostly as chimneys with many pro possibilities in the cracks. Try to sling pro wisely - otherwise you'll have ugly rope drug in the end of the pitch(I had).The chimney size is good-is not too tight, but not split you out. You turned main roof at 10+, but it is not over. 15 feet up is real crux when chimney disappears and you climbing short but difficult section of flared fingers. Safe #4 cam for last 20 feet of 5.9 OW and blue camelot for Belay in the wide alcove .140 feet, 5.11-Remarkable pitch.
P 3.Another great pitch started with 15 feet roof / chimney. Turning the lip of the roof with dip wide hands - powerful 10d .
Sustain and good to the top of the Pinnacle. 130 feet 10d
P1. Varied chimney with a lot of possibility of thin, medium and large pro in the corner. Belay just below the first roof.140 feet 5.8 sustain.
P2. Double Crack in the roof.The roof consists of two waves. Both climbed mostly as chimneys with many pro possibilities in the cracks. Try to sling pro wisely - otherwise you'll have ugly rope drug in the end of the pitch(I had).The chimney size is good-is not too tight, but not split you out. You turned main roof at 10+, but it is not over. 15 feet up is real crux when chimney disappears and you climbing short but difficult section of flared fingers. Safe #4 cam for last 20 feet of 5.9 OW and blue camelot for Belay in the wide alcove .140 feet, 5.11-Remarkable pitch.
P 3.Another great pitch started with 15 feet roof / chimney. Turning the lip of the roof with dip wide hands - powerful 10d .
Sustain and good to the top of the Pinnacle. 130 feet 10d
Pacifica, CA
to chimney a bit.
We found brand new rap bolts on the face.
2 60 m ropes required to get down. Feb 2, 2015