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Too Much Fun

5.9+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 28 votes
FA: Bruce Meneghin, Tom Howard - 1976
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Moore's Wall > Moore's Wall (R… > Central Wall

Description

Shares a start with Blue Chock at a prominent left facing corner. Climb the corner until you can step right across the blocky face. Head up into the base of a shallow dihedral. Clip a bolt and work those stems until you can wrap your hands around a large jug. Continue to the large ledge atop Washboard. Downclimb some 4th class terrain or head up and right towards a small tree for a slung boulder rap station

Location

Begins at the left facing corner a few yards left of Washboard.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Direct start of Too Much Fun. Climb up and to the right from the detached block.
[Hide Photo] Direct start of Too Much Fun. Climb up and to the right from the detached block.
Just past the bolt.
[Hide Photo] Just past the bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] The direct start adds some spice and takes away the rope drag. Pull up off of the triangular block to the right of the regular start and wander up the thin, slabby face keeping an eye out for better edges and gear. A bigger Tri-cam in a not-so-obvious placement takes the sting out of the R rating. Slabby face leads directly to the crux dihedral. Direct bit is probably 5.6 with the hardest moves coming right off the ground. Small nuts (and that bigger Tri-cam) are helpful. Oct 20, 2010
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Yep, watch for rope drag. You don't want any when trying the moves above the bolt. Sep 21, 2014
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] ...or when moving up to clip the bolt. Sep 22, 2014
Nathaniel Ward
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Reminds me of Nutsweat without the hard move down low or huge roof at the end. The exposure, intermittent run outs, and traverse funkiness up high are similar. There’s a small but bomber non-obvious horizontal placement on the slabby face of the direct start around 20 ft up, too. Clipping the bolt feels well protected to me, but there is a bit of a runout above. Excellent old school trad route, for my money. I’m surprised I don’t hear more folks recommend it. Sep 5, 2020