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Routes in Offwidth City

Black-n-Stacks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Done Lubin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mayor, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ralph T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Craig Luebben and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 1,868 total, 21/month
Shared By: Shanti on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

One of Craig Leubben's favorite offwidths! Pitch 1: One of the best offwidth pitches in the desert. Clean and classic. Hands through a small roof to a challenging 5.11 squeeze chimney. Pitch 2: Tight 5.10 squeeze chimney. Pitch 3: 5.10a Hands to fingers to top of the pillar. Pitch 4: 5.10+ Hands to offwidth. Pitch 5: 4rth class. Descent: Down climb Pitch 4 and rap the route.

Location

First wide crack to the right of the main prow. One route to the right of The Mayor.

Protection

Set of BD cams with doubles on #3s and #5s, 3-4x #6s, 3x Green Bros, 4x Blue Bros. Two or three 9" Valley Giants are useful on Pitch 1.

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Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.11
Whoa, this is a big girl indeed.

Very important gear beta for the second pitch. Save your blue big bros for the 'top'. VG9s do not work for the 'last' 20 feet or so. If you fell, you'd fall onto tipped out VG9s and big bros...

Also, I say 'top' because as you crest what looks like the end, you realize that you have a lot longer to go. You have to go deep in and can place some 5s, 6s, and then build an anchor higher up. Second pitch is >100 feet. Bring two ropes or a 60m.

This thing needs anchors where it crests so people can safely being their second up and/or rap. Oct 18, 2016