Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Craig Luebben and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 2,244 total · 20/month
Shared By: Shanti on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

One of Craig Leubben's favorite offwidths! Pitch 1: One of the best offwidth pitches in the desert. Clean and classic. Hands through a small roof to a challenging 5.11 squeeze chimney. Pitch 2: Tight 5.10 squeeze chimney. Pitch 3: 5.10a Hands to fingers to top of the pillar. Pitch 4: 5.10+ Hands to offwidth. Pitch 5: 4rth class. Descent: Down climb Pitch 4 and rap the route.

Location

First wide crack to the right of the main prow. One route to the right of The Mayor.

Protection

Set of BD cams with doubles on #3s and #5s, 3-4x #6s, 3x Green Bros, 4x Blue Bros. Two or three 9" Valley Giants are useful on Pitch 1.

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