Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Craig Luebben and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 2,057 total · 20/month
Shared By: Shanti on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


One of Craig Leubben's favorite offwidths! Pitch 1: One of the best offwidth pitches in the desert. Clean and classic. Hands through a small roof to a challenging 5.11 squeeze chimney. Pitch 2: Tight 5.10 squeeze chimney. Pitch 3: 5.10a Hands to fingers to top of the pillar. Pitch 4: 5.10+ Hands to offwidth. Pitch 5: 4rth class. Descent: Down climb Pitch 4 and rap the route.


First wide crack to the right of the main prow. One route to the right of The Mayor.


Set of BD cams with doubles on #3s and #5s, 3-4x #6s, 3x Green Bros, 4x Blue Bros. Two or three 9" Valley Giants are useful on Pitch 1.


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Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
Whoa, this is a big girl indeed.

Very important gear beta for the second pitch. Save your blue big bros for the 'top'. VG9s do not work for the 'last' 20 feet or so. If you fell, you'd fall onto tipped out VG9s and big bros...

Also, I say 'top' because as you crest what looks like the end, you realize that you have a lot longer to go. You have to go deep in and can place some 5s, 6s, and then build an anchor higher up. Second pitch is >100 feet. Bring two ropes or a 60m.

This thing needs anchors where it crests so people can safely being their second up and/or rap. Oct 18, 2016