Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Sorcerer

Sorcerer's Crossing T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Craig Luebben, Jeff Achey
Page Views: 1,476 total, 16/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This challenging route has been described as the "hardest offwidth tower in the desert."

The four pitch route starts on the right side of the Sorcerer pillar linking up with the final pitch of the Sorcerer.

P1: (5.12-) 130' Starts as a chimney and transitions into 30' of splitter butterfly/calf-locks. The last 30' section is a challenging squeeze chimney. A sustained and technical pitch.

P2: (5.10) 75' Straight forward offwidth.

P3: (5.2?) 20' Weird traverse behind the tower to the original route.

P4: (5.11+) 80' This pitch is the original finish on the "Sorcerer." Intimidating chimney and squeeze to the top of the tower.

Location

Starts on the right side of the "Sorcerer" and you rappel down the left side.

Protection

From finger size up to Blue Big-Bros. The first pitch takes alot of #5 BD cams, and the final pitch is difficult to protect. All anchors replaced Spring 2010.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
awesome comment! Jun 5, 2010
Shanti
 
Shanti  
 
Offwidth visionaries Craig Leubben and Jeff Achey teamed up to establish one of the finest and hardest offwidth towers in the desert. Pitch 1 will crush your ego and Pitch 4 will crush your soul! Jun 5, 2010