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Routes in Reynolds Hill

Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barf Bucket Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bloodletting T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Climb and Punishment T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Climbs of Passion Exit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coffee Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Connecticut Yankee T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cosmic Debris T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Man's Demise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Grinder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Crack, The T V0+ 4+
Forever War, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Glenda's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hug Jombo T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hung Like a Horse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K.P. T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Klink T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Labyrinth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maiden T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matron T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moor's Crossing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peach Cobbler T V1 5
Penis Dimension T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pooh Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robert's Rectification T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sky Line T V0- 4-
Spatial Relations T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Time Quake T V4 6B
Tombstone Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pamela Shanti Pack
Page Views: 4,753 total · 48/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The route is accessed by a 5.5 slab pitch and then goes through a 35' OW roof.

Location

This is 50 yards left of "Pooh Corner."

Protection

P1: green Alien, small stopper, gear anchor.

P2: Singles from red Camalot through BD #6, with 2 or 3 #5s and 2 #6s.

Single rope rappel from a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

slim    
Am I having deja vu, or was this route submission and comments added to MP a year or two ago? Jun 11, 2010
Mike D
Fort Collins, CO
Mike D   Fort Collins, CO
I tried this climb a few years ago and got nowhere. Learning the rating helps me understand why, and seeing the photos has started me on inverted sit-ups. Congrats to those who sent it, it sure is cool looking. Mar 29, 2011
Okay...I've got to say it. I have been out of the loop for a while, but I'm like 99% certain that John Varco did the FA of this thing. What's the deal. If I'm wrong then sorry. Am I wrong? May 9, 2011
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
I've deleted some comments that were irrelevant. Jun 27, 2011
That flake to the left of this thing looks wild. Wonder how solid it is? Nov 4, 2011
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Pamela is sick strong. I imagine her offwith curriculum vitae is unparalleled by any other female in the world. Jan 10, 2014
Warrior
Rock City, GA
Warrior   Rock City, GA
Wade - not very solid. You could bolt it and still die IMO (more accurately, kill your belayer I suppose)...it moves if you start to barely reef on it.

Regarding the upper comment, yeah Varco a very good offwidth climber, but this was a hair beyond his paygrade, at least for FA. Maybe he repeated it, I don't know....

Many people vied for this FA. Scarpelli, Varco, Takeda, et al. This route was erroneously labeled as being in Tuolumne in an old Alpinist mag.

There's about 2-3 feet of this route (The Void) that are very fiendish (the rest can be done at .11-12 minus-ish IMO)....

...but that's probably most Voo routes in a nutshell.... Jan 30, 2016
Don't let the very short stature of this route fool you, it is a very technical little beast. Even the slab was a bit surprising, it looks like 5.5 from the ground but is around 5.7 (according to the FA). An offset cam is nice for the slab. Pamela told me stories about people falling out of the crux and getting knocked out, either by swinging back up into the roof and hitting their heads or getting a soft deck on the slab. Figuring out the gear for the crux and not letting it get in your way was the deal on this one. I fell and hung all over the pivot on the onsight lead attempt. I probably shouldn't have tried this as my first Voo OW, but I think Pamela wanted a good laugh. It was much, much easier to clean the route on TR when not worrying about bashing your head into the roof. To me, the toe hanging felt harder than that on Forever War but much shorter and with a physically easier but more technical pivot. Scary fun!!

Bring small stuff for the approach pitch, and a #1. The second pitch I used a #1, #3, #4, #5, #5, and #6. The #6 is the pain in the ass piece to protect the pivot and easier topout, placing it in the wrong spot can ruin your day! Aug 9, 2016

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