Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Big Wall
|Kopfuber S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Medo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft|
|Page Views:||503 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on Jun 4, 2010|
DescriptionThis is the easiest way to the top of this wall, so it was the obvious choice for us. The guide book shows the route starting on a ledge 100 feet up. Well it's only about 5.4, but there are no bolts. Everything is bolted in Europe right? We won't need any gear. Anyway, you might want a little for this section... Pitch 2) heads up a right angling ramp above that ledge. 5.7ish belay after 100 feet. Picth 3) Continue up the ramp until it ends then work your way up some steeper rock to a big tree ledge. Pitch 4) The last steep headwall to the top. Steep, but with good cracks and edges. Enjoy the view. You can see Italy, Croatia and the Adriatic! Rap...
LocationFollow the main trail to the back wall of the amphitheater. Up and right from the giant cave look for the starting ledge about 100 feet up.
ProtectionAll bolted except the easy approach pitch. There is a 7c that gets you to the start, but if you can climb that hard you probably won't be doing this route.
There is a bolted rappel route just left of the finish. From the very top, there is one short rappel, then 3 30m rappels which bring you back to the starting ledge, and then one more 30 m to the ground. Be really careful on the third rappel. It is free, and really hard to get to the anchor. If you have an extra rope it would be nice to skip over this one...