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Routes in Damfino Canyon

Damfidont T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Damfino Spire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Glen Rink, Tim Toula
Page Views: 882 total, 10/month
Shared By: markguycan on Jun 4, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

P1- thin hands 5.10- to choss to ledge with "bad bolts"
P2- Enduro OW 5.10+ chickenwing/hand stack or lieback 150ft or so to some truly bad rusty button head bolts at the notch. I give this 5.11- for the endurance factor.
P3- climb choss to tunnel thru to easy chimney to a spectacular summit.

Location

hike up the main drainage for 15min the turn left up the side drainage to Damfino Cyn, continue boulder hopping for 30min or so til you are below the spire then thrash and scramble to the base.

Protection

single set small stuff to #3 camalot then dbl #4, trpl #4.5 and old sized #5. 2 ropes to descend.

Photos

Leave the wash at a steep loose gully, left of the corner, prepare for battle. The first pitch should have an R-rating, serious and dirty, terrible. Save a #3/#4 camalot to finish the runout dirt climbing. You can back up the rusty 1/4" belay bolts after the long corner with cams. The third pitch chimney is loose. Sick summit. 5 raps down Damfidont with a 70m rope, a 60m might work... May 3, 2014
Ryan Z
  5.10-
Ryan Z  
  5.10-
The approach to this climb is one to be reckoned with. Although I will say it was not as crazy as I had expected. The first pitch, I will take the liberty of naming "the smell good vertical bushwhack." You will understand when you climb it. The gear on P1 is fine if you are looking for it. The second pitch is around 100 or 120 feet but is really only 5.10- or maybe 5.10 O/W. The route gets 4 stars for this beautiful 2nd pitch. When relating this O/W to other 10+ O/W's I have climbed, it is not near as difficult. The last pitch is a very cool, easy, chimney. Have fun out there!

As a side note: Do yourself a favor and bring (1) 70m rope and rappel down damfidont. We did it in 3 raps with the last rap being a real rope-stretcher. Apr 19, 2014
Ryan Z
  5.10-
Ryan Z  
  5.10-
Does anyone have information on the year this route was F/A'd. Or any idea how many ascents it has seen? Apr 16, 2014
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
the "bad" bandito bolts are actually pretty good. the rusty button-heads up higher need to be replaced though. On the bright side- you can now skip those upper anchors and rap down on bomber 1/2" x 5"bolts from the summit -down Damfidont. PindrycMilan- the name is the same as the FS sign that used to mark the trail before someone decided to take it home. Oct 14, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Mark's quotation marks around Bad Bolts may imply they are Bandito hangers. If that's the case, you might want to be ready with a hand drill. Jul 27, 2012
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
So are the bolts on this bad because they are placed badly, or because the rock is just that bad? I really want to do this climb, and would be willing to replace the anchors if it's that simple... Jul 27, 2012
Isn't the correct name "Dam If I Know" (DAMIFIKNOW) as is the bike trail? Feb 22, 2012