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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 177 total, 2/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 4, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Remember the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode where Worf sustains a spinal injury and needs a new spine? Well, this ridge reminded me of that episode, and so that's why I'm calling it the Klingon Arete. The ridge has some Klingon spinal features, especially near the top.

This ridge appears to have a number of interesting exits near the top. I took the easiest one. The others looked interesting as they were a bit over-hanging.

Location

This is the vertical ridge on the South East corner of the crag.

Protection

There is no official anchor for this climb. As the pictures will show, I used the anchors for Batman Surprise, and then used another anchor near the top of the climb as a direcitional. It also acted as a backup anchor, which is good too, because this also reduced any additional stretch added to the system between the primary and secondary anchors.

My setup was for a fixed line, so I'm not sure how you could easily top-rope this climb. I'm sure it could be lead on gear as a trad-climb. There appeared to be many opportunities to place gear along the way.

Photos

Taylor Gemperline  
  5.7+
I decided to try to lead this route on trad. It protects very well if you stay in the dihedrals to the right. This makes the route much more worth climbing. I gave it 3 stars for the area because it has some fun moves and a cool feeling location on the rock.

Standard rack does just fine up to a #2 Camalot. Built an anchor at the top with my gear but I'm sure you could actually just sling a 20ft strip of webbing around the big crack in the top and be good. Sep 16, 2016