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Routes in Corral Wall High Buttress

Aces and Eights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BT Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bad Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Man's Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hitch in my Giddyup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot as a Whorehouse on a Nickel Night T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kill Them All and Let God Sort Them Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Geoff Archer & Bob Tarver, February 1991
Page Views: 415 total, 5/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 4, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a cool, right facing dihedral. This climb starts on a high tier, above a black buttress. This is the best of the climbs in this area, and was done a number of years ago by an unknown party.

Location

On the East end of a long wall up ans SW of the Corral Wall, easily seen from the Corral Wall.

Protection

trad gear, mostly thin to med.

Photos

- No Photos -
Geoff Archer  
 
Dead Man's Hand

From atop the BT Buttress, move 100 feet right and climb a spectacular right-facing dihedral. Crack thins out and climb 20 feet higher to belay amongst boulders. Gear to 1" 5.9 FA - Geoff Archer & Bob Tarver 2/91 Oct 8, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Geoff;...I do believe they are one in the same;....good for you guys;...you scored on that corner pitch....We saw your sling at the top after we did the climb, and we say " rats " for we then knew we were not the first to climb that awesome crack pitch. You did leave a few things for us though;...thanks.....Tucker and friends did some others crack climbs nearby too....it's beautiful up there, but sort of a hoof to get up there. Thanks for the info, and hope all is well with you, Geoff......We did them in 2002....11 years after you guys were there.......we got sloppy seconds..... Jun 4, 2010
Geoff Archer  
 
Todd,

Might this be one of the routes I listed under Upper Dodge City? There are several routes I did with Bob Tarver back in 1991 that sound like this dihedral and the unknown 2 bolt face route. See my pics and hand-drawn topos on the Upper Dodge City page.

GA Jun 4, 2010