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Dope

5.13a/b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 9 votes
FA: Lance Hadfield
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Cr…
Access Issue: Closed to the Public for Sensitive Archaeological Resources Details

Description

Thuggy moves right off the ground lead past 3 bolts to a shelf and some underclings. Rest up here as much as possible. Continue past a couple more bolts on smaller holds to a difficult move getting established in a pair of pockets and a big throw out of them to a jug. Move up the series of jugs past another bolt. Make a long reach out left from the highest jug to clip, call it good for "Short on Dope" 5.12+, or bust the V6 boulder problem moving out left to another jug and clip, then up on flat holds to an undercling and the last bolt/anchor. Recommend not clipping this and instead lowering off the previous bolt as it will be hard on your rope.

Location

There are 2 main cave features and this route starts on the prow that sticks out between them off of a couple of pretty big stacked blocks. The route starts out by heading out and right for a few bolts then more straight out and finally to the left at the end.

Protection

Bolts with fixed chain draws. Color coded with green tape. Stick clip recommended for first clip.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

end of dope
[Hide Photo] end of dope
Topo shot
[Hide Photo] Topo shot
Fighting the pump<br>
<br>
Photo By Dan West
[Hide Photo] Fighting the pump Photo By Dan West
MattL at the start of Dope
[Hide Photo] MattL at the start of Dope
13 year old Ben Hanna rests <br>
up for the crux moves on<br>
Dope (5.13)
[Hide Photo] 13 year old Ben Hanna rests up for the crux moves on Dope (5.13)
crux of dope<br>
<br>
Photo By Dan West
[Hide Photo] crux of dope Photo By Dan West
The tough middle section on<br>
Dope (5.13)
[Hide Photo] The tough middle section on Dope (5.13)
13 year old Ben sends it<br>
Dope (5.13)
[Hide Photo] 13 year old Ben sends it Dope (5.13)
The hold that the last crux of Dope revolves around. It is pretty good after you hang, but after 40 feet of upsidedown climbing and  2 sections of about V5 it is pretty bad.
[Hide Photo] The hold that the last crux of Dope revolves around. It is pretty good after you hang, but after 40 feet of upsidedown climbing and 2 sections of about V5 it is pretty bad.
MattL entering the third and final crux of Dope
[Hide Photo] MattL entering the third and final crux of Dope
MattL trying to get tall at the begining of the second crux on Dope
[Hide Photo] MattL trying to get tall at the begining of the second crux on Dope
MattL moving past the first bolt on Dope
[Hide Photo] MattL moving past the first bolt on Dope

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] This climb is Dope! If not for the sharp holds and wandering line this would be 4 stars to me. The rock is surprisingly good for about 90% of the route. Basically a series of boulder problems a V5 start leads to a good rest, to a V4 thru the pocket section to a final V5 core intensive move to the finish. Aug 2, 2010