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Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3 from 9
FA: Lance Hadfield
> Jemez Mountains…
> Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Cr…
Access Issue: Closed to the Public for Sensitive Archaeological Resources
The Forest Service issued a temporary closure of Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) to all public access in order to perform an archaeological survey. For all intents and purposes, this temporary closure order should be considered a _permanent_ closure order. Impacts to the cave's nationally significant archaeological resources are the major concern. The Access Fund continues to work with New Mexico Climbers Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG), local climbers, and the US Forest Service to address this issue.
Thuggy moves right off the ground lead past 3 bolts to a shelf and some underclings. Rest up here as much as possible. Continue past a couple more bolts on smaller holds to a difficult move getting established in a pair of pockets and a big throw out of them to a jug. Move up the series of jugs past another bolt. Make a long reach out left from the highest jug to clip, call it good for "Short on Dope" 5.12+, or bust the V6 boulder problem moving out left to another jug and clip, then up on flat holds to an undercling and the last bolt/anchor. Recommend not clipping this and instead lowering off the previous bolt as it will be hard on your rope.
There are 2 main cave features and this route starts on the prow that sticks out between them off of a couple of pretty big stacked blocks. The route starts out by heading out and right for a few bolts then more straight out and finally to the left at the end.
Bolts with fixed chain draws. Color coded with green tape. Stick clip recommended for first clip.