Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||J. Haas, solo, 2006|
|Page Views:||371 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 2, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Step up high on the slab below the dangling flake to place gear under it and at a low point on the side. A few knuckle-sized cams and stoppers are in "good" placements, but the hanging flake does flex a little, so over-camming or using the largest possible stopper is a good idea.
Stem up another move and get a finger lock and place additional gear as high as possible to prevent a fall to the slab from the crux. Pull up on thuggy fingerlocks and some interesting footwork to scrunch up high into the last locks before the crack becomes a seam. An RP or two and even the smallest microcam you have can be placed from this very strenuous stance if desired, but the flake does flex a bit, so gear is questionable. Mind the fact that a sharp edge presents itself to the rope in the event of a fall.
Execute the confusing crux to reach the top of the hanging flake in a solid undercling with good gear potential. I broke off a hold here, fell before placing gear, and cut the sheath of my rope through. Beware. Sink that solid piece, a large nut or a #0.5 Camalot (~1.5"). Move out right and up past some remaining suspect rock in a pod and up into a 5.8 handcrack that faces and leans to the right, then climb onward to the belay tree.