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Routes in East Wall, North End (Diamond Dogs Area)

Barking Spiders S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bong Along T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borat TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bunnies TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Diamond Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guardian Angels S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lenore Goldberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lickety Dogs TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Lickety Splits T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No-Doz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Teen Steam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Uncertainty Principle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zardoz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon and Mike Brown, January 1989
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: Justin Slagle on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is directly across from Lenore Goldberg. It starts out going up a ramp about 15' up, then after that you're in the business. If you're tall, it looks like you can reach up and get right into the crack. For my shorter kin, i couldn't tell you what to do, because i couldn't touch it. The crack starts out thin and gets wide at the top, and is somewhat overhanging. Looks like some liebacking, some jamming, hopefully someday i can figure it out. All in all, looks good.

Protection

Cams (probably up to #4 BD) and nuts

Photos

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Nice route . Did it yesterday.Certainly not PG. It's a crack! Mar 19, 2015
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
 
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
 
I'm sure many wee folk can get it, just not this one, not yet, we'll have to head over there after the summer. I do believe the climb is well worth one star, it looks great, I just wasn't sure on the ethics of starring a route if I didn't finish it. Jun 2, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
The wee folk should be able to do this climb.....just put your hands in the crack and let the battle begin. It's actually a very good climb, but unfortunately, like many climbs in Joshua Tree, not very long. Give it another try, Justin;....I'll go over there with you and we can both get beat up on the climb. Please give this climb a star too;..it's deserving and worthy of it. Jun 2, 2010