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Awkward Teenage Dating

5.6, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
FA: ??
Colorado > S Platte > Turkey Rocks > Leftovers
Warning Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a fairly straightforward offwidth. Like teenage dating, awkwardly grope around to get to the top of this climb. To get the true essence of the climb, avoid using the obvious (and tempting) face holds of Reptillian Wall. It is a good for TR problem. Not a good beginner lead if you are truly using the offwidth, and only the offwidth!

Location

This is the obvious offwidth you straddle while ascending Reptillian Wall.

Protection

This climb can be protected on the left, using the same hand crack that protects Reptillian Wall. Small pro best for down low, with larger being used further up. Walk off to the left once you top out, or build a gear anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is where the crack starts to slim down enough to start getting some heel-toe action.
[Hide Photo] This is where the crack starts to slim down enough to start getting some heel-toe action.
Reptilian Wall and Awkward Teenage Dating.
[Hide Photo] Reptilian Wall and Awkward Teenage Dating.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Justin Brunson
Tacoma WA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Going left side in makes sense, but that puts all the pro behind you and above your head which is...well, awkward. About the same angle as Easy Jam at Vedauwoo, but much wider [squeeze chimney] at the bottom.

If your partner wants to lead it too, DO NOT PULL THE ROPE. This should have been obvious to me, but I'm not a smart man. Mar 28, 2015