Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,446 total · 13/month
Shared By: Hot Dish on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead. Details

Description

This is a fairly straightforward offwidth. Like teenage dating, awkwardly grope around to get to the top of this climb. To get the true essence of the climb, avoid using the obvious (and tempting) face holds of Reptillian Wall. It is a good for TR problem. Not a good beginner lead if you are truly using the offwidth, and only the offwidth!

Location

This is the obvious offwidth you straddle while ascending Reptillian Wall.

Protection

This climb can be protected on the left, using the same hand crack that protects Reptillian Wall. Small pro best for down low, with larger being used further up. Walk off to the left once you top out, or build a gear anchor.

Photos

Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.7
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.7
Going left side in makes sense, but that puts all the pro behind you and above your head which is...well, awkward. About the same angle as Easy Jam at Vedauwoo, but much wider [squeeze chimney] at the bottom.

If your partner wants to lead it too, DO NOT PULL THE ROPE. This should have been obvious to me, but I'm not a smart man. Mar 28, 2015