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Routes in DMZ

Berlin Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brandenburg Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breaking the Law S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobbler's Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingertip Ledge of Contentment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holocaust S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Transcendence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Focardi, Sean Greer: 1990
Page Views: 186 total, 2/month
Shared By: john durr on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Fun climbing, a brief but hard to figure out slab crux leads to a juggy head wall.

The rock on the first 25 feet isn't the best, but the climbing is good and pretty easy in this section. There is a bolt right there at the crux where a couple of good horizontal hand holds are frustratingly out of reach just when the foot holds disappear. A novel approach will make the crux 5.10c, don't get stumped.

Location

Bolted slab climb just right of Holocaust. Morning sun.

Protection

8 bolts to chains, it is a little bit runout past the 8th bolt, but the holds are huge jugs, just stay cool. A TCU or small cam could be placed here too.

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