Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,571 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark D Evans on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Long varied climbing in a left facing corner. Double cracks at the top ease the tension You get a little bit of everything on this route. A good warm-up for the area in my opinion

Location

Starts on a block in a left facing corner 30 feet right of 'Idiot Wind.' 2 ropes needed to get off.

Protection

Standard Rack to 3" should do. You can plug a #4 Camalot in a couple spots if you want, but it is not really needed

Photos

Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
hero hand jams to a blue-collar offwidth pod crux.

be careful with some of the flakes on the left. Mar 23, 2011
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Should you happen to enter the offwidth the wrong direction, be prepared to battle for a bit=) Nov 14, 2011
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a fun line with a good intro off-width section. Don't let the ow intimidate you.

I was suprised by the number of #1 camalots I placed/wanted. I think a good rack in camalot c4s is 2 #0.75, 4 #1, 3 #2, 3 #3, 2 #4, doubles in the sizes leading up to a #1 and an optional #5. I only had 1 #4 and was fine bumping it for a body length or 2 and I didn't bring a #5. Oct 27, 2014
Alec LaLonde
  5.10-
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10-
Really fun, varied climbing, with the perfect amount of features to keep in the low end of 5.10. You can get off with a single 70m so it must be more like 115'. Mar 9, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Sweet to have a #4 IMO. Apr 20, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Also happy to have a 4 given that it protects the crux... could take a 5, but I think it might get counter productive, and be a couple feet below an ideal 4 placement. bring the 5 if this is at your limit and you don't want to fall on a bomber 2 or 1. +1 on the struggle that will ensue if you enter the OW wrong....memorable. Apr 25, 2017
WillK  
I'm terrible at OW and I wish I also had a #6 because I don't think the #5 could have fit until the bomber #2 were at my feet. I guess I just don't like whipping. Nov 19, 2018