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First Ascent Crack
5.4,
Trad, 25 ft (8 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 85
votes
FA: FRA: John Sedelmeyer and John Pinckney mid-90's
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (p) Spiderman Buttress
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
A small finger crack to the right of Spiderman. Great route to practice setting nuts; you can zip it up real tight if you want. Highly recommended as an intro to placing trad pro.
Two bolts at the top for a great anchor. Once the TR is set, the slab to the left, between Spiderman, is a fun face to play around on.
Location
Obvious crack to the right of Spiderman (a classic 2/3 pitch trad route) at the Spiderman buttress just south of Mesa Verde Wall over on the West Side Crags.
Route 48 on page 195 of the 2010 Alan Watts Guide to Smith Rock SP (Smith Rocks Bible)
Protection
Double set of nuts to 8 should be more than fine; bring your removal tool. There are a couple pods for throwing in a friend, but not necessary at all. Two bolts ar the top for an TR anchor.
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Portland, OR
Gresham, OR
Somewhere in the desert
West Linn