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Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Explosive Energy Child T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Harmer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff Little Fingers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: FRA: John Sedelmeyer and John Pinckney mid-90's
Page Views: 2,092 total · 21/month
Shared By: Teh Phuzzy on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A small finger crack to the right of Spiderman. Great route to practice setting nuts; you can zip it up real tight if you want. Highly recommended as an intro to placing trad pro.

Two bolts at the top for a great anchor. Once the TR is set, the slab to the left, between Spiderman, is a fun face to play around on.

Location

Obvious crack to the right of Spiderman (a classic 2/3 pitch trad route) at the Spiderman buttress just south of Mesa Verde Wall over on the West Side Crags.

Route 48 on page 195 of the 2010 Alan Watts Guide to Smith Rock SP (Smith Rocks Bible)

Protection

Double set of nuts to 8 should be more than fine; bring your removal tool. There are a couple pods for throwing in a friend, but not necessary at all. Two bolts ar the top for an TR anchor.

Photos

Ben Stabley
Portland, OR
Ben Stabley   Portland, OR
This short little route is actually pretty fun climbing. Oct 22, 2015
DIAN
Gresham, OR
 
DIAN   Gresham, OR
 
Great intro to trad placements Feb 24, 2016
Laralyn M.
SF is home (but I live in NYC)
 
Laralyn M.   SF is home (but I live in NYC)
 
Agree with others. This is a great warm-up/intro to trad placements route. Jul 12, 2017

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