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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett, 2010
Page Views: 196 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on May 30, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Fool Me Twice is an extension to Deceiver that links up to The Brown Palace. I thought it was a very enjoyable pitch.

1. Climb Deceiver (5.10-ish) to its rappel anchors. An easier approach utilizes the first half of the first pitch of The Brown Palace, at which point Deceiver is followed (5.7).

2. Move right from the belay to a shallow, left-facing corner (3 bolts) and then use RPs (and/or an optional cam out right) to protect an easier stretch to a bulging headwall. Pull through the crux bulge protected by small cams and wires (5.11c), and then angle up right along a small, angling corner with tricky climbing (5.11, 4 more bolts -- the last two bolts are shared with The Brown Palace).

Rappel twice from here, or continue to the top of the wall via The Brown Palace.

Location

Deceiver begins near the left side of the main road-facing wall, and Fool Me Twice adds one pitch to that route.

Protection

Small cams to #0.75 Camalot, a few small wires to 0.5 inch, RPs, and about one dozen QDs. A couple long slings will be useful to manage rope drag. I doubled up on #0.4 Camalots at the crux moves -- not a bad idea given the slab below.

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Pretty tenuous over the bulge!
Never used the 0.4. A blue Alien was the key piece for me. May 7, 2017