Type: Trad, Sport, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett, 2010
Page Views: 228 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on May 30, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fool Me Twice is an extension to Deceiver that links up to The Brown Palace. I thought it was a very enjoyable pitch.

1. Climb Deceiver (5.10-ish) to its rappel anchors. An easier approach utilizes the first half of the first pitch of The Brown Palace, at which point Deceiver is followed (5.7).

2. Move right from the belay to a shallow, left-facing corner (3 bolts) and then use RPs (and/or an optional cam out right) to protect an easier stretch to a bulging headwall. Pull through the crux bulge protected by small cams and wires (5.11c), and then angle up right along a small, angling corner with tricky climbing (5.11, 4 more bolts -- the last two bolts are shared with The Brown Palace).

Rappel twice from here, or continue to the top of the wall via The Brown Palace.

Location

Deceiver begins near the left side of the main road-facing wall, and Fool Me Twice adds one pitch to that route.

Protection

Small cams to #0.75 Camalot, a few small wires to 0.5 inch, RPs, and about one dozen QDs. A couple long slings will be useful to manage rope drag. I doubled up on #0.4 Camalots at the crux moves -- not a bad idea given the slab below.

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Pretty tenuous over the bulge!
Never used the 0.4. A blue Alien was the key piece for me. May 7, 2017