5.10a,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Patrick Munn, Dominic Eisinger--2002
New York
> Adirondacks
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine
> Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Details
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
Description
Though this is often thought as a variation to pitch 2 of Pilgrim's Progress and Mayflower, I thought this pitch to be good enough to warrant a separate entry.
Climb the 1st pitch of Mayflower or Pilgrim's Progress to the comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. Climb out right passing the vertical hand crack in black rock (pitch 2 of Snow Blue 10a R). Continue slightly up right, clipping the the actual anchor for Pilgrim's Progress and the two bolts at the arrowhead flake. Climb up and into the undercling flake. Continue underclinging back across left with poor feet, but great gear. Clip a high bolt above the flake, and upon reaching the end, move into the broken left-facing corner (shared with the end of Mayflower's 2nd pitch--5.9+) and a rest. A manky old pin and a solid nut placement protect the final, funky moves to the chain anchors above.
Location
The arching undercling finger crack above the first pitch of Mayflower.
Protection
A small set of nuts, several slings/draws, and a single rack from a green Alien to a #1 Camalot is all you'll need to protect this route comfortably.