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Routes in Shortline Wall

Amtrax T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anthrax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tracks TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Karl Kiser & Cathy Dunn, summer 1979
Page Views: 40 total, 0/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 30, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

This is an excellent short crack and slab climb. The crack is gorgeous, with perfect hand jams tapering to tight fingers at the top. The crux occurs once the crack disappears, with a few delicate 5.9 slab moves. But even after the crux, the climb keeps you on your toes, because the slab continues for another 20 ft without any protection, but getting easier as you approach the anchors.

Location

This is the middle crack on the shortline wall. It splits half-way up, take the left-hand split.

Protection

Set of wires and cams to 3". The crux is protected by a small but bomber nut placement (a finger joint size). Even though the hard moves are above this placement, it is bomber and there is a clean fall. Go for it!

The anchor consists of 3 old 1/4" bolts and some old webbing/rings. For top-roping bring a cordalette or webbing to extend the anchor over the lip.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.9
Karl Kiser  
  5.9
This was the first route on the small wall. FA: Karl Kiser & Cathy Dunn, summer 1979. May 31, 2010