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Routes in Rabbit Ears Slabs

Barb's Roof Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bucky Blue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bucky's Shoulder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bucky's Twin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Drew's Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandmother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keyhole Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Mother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Ingraham?
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 30, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Not sure of the true name for this route (see comments below), but it goes up the middle of the bigger slab. It is identifiable by the scraggly tree at the top of the first pitch.

The first pitch starts directly under this tree, up a black streaked slab for about 30 ft to a sloping ledge covered with vegetation. (a variation would be to traverse in to this ledge from the left). Above this bushy ledge is a short corner directly beneath the tree. At the top of the corner you can exit to the left or right around a block. The left-hand exit is easier, but a little loose. Another variation is to skip the corner altogether and climb up through vegetated terrain further left, past a now replaced bolt. Belay at the tree.

Pitch two steps left off the belay ledge toward a new bolt. The crux are the thin face moves past this bolt, after which the angle eases off. A second bolt comes into view slightly to the right. Past this bolt one can follow various crack systems up to a nice belay ledge underneath a blocky headwall.

I'm guessing that one could add a 3rd or fourth pitch to this route, but we opted to rappel from the spindly tree on this ledge.

Location

The route is left of Bucky Blue underneath a gnarly tree. A 60 m rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch will barely reach the ground. Unfortunately, a single 60m rope rappel does not quite reach the top of the first pitch. Another option for descent is to traverse east along the large ledge system at the top of the 2nd pitch, and then scramble down the gully at the left side of the slab.

On the topo, this is route A-2 in blue.

Protection

Small rack of wires and assorted cams up to 2" is sufficient. Bringing extra webbing to leave at the rappels is a good idea. Both trees have slings/rings on them.
Ian Harris
Las Cruces NM
  5.8 PG13
Ian Harris   Las Cruces NM
  5.8 PG13
Fun route. Many thanks to the bolting party who replaced bolts on this route. As it stands, I think it needs a few more bolts on pitch 2 in the gearless sections. Sep 21, 2016
Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
  5.8 PG13
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
  5.8 PG13
Pitch 3 can go directly up from the tree at top of Pitch 2. Go up the head wall near the right end of doable to a large tree. Continue up the slabs as you wish. Can run for nearly a full rope worth to the top. Scramble along the ridge line down to the rappel at Bucky Blue. Sep 18, 2016
Karl Kiser
  5.7
Karl Kiser  
  5.7
The route up to the tree is what was once called No Name (at least in the 70s). It went generally up two pitches then right and skirted a wide crack near the top for another two pitches. One would walk off right and down the gully (same as Buckey Blue if no rap off the lower section).

The traverse left, at the start of the 2nd pitch, to the face bolts is Mother's Day and was probably put up by Dick Ingraham. May 31, 2010