Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
Routes in Trilogy Buttress
|Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft|
|FA:||Jim and Christian Knight|
|Page Views:||131 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on May 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA fairly fun gear route in a location with great views and exposure. Requires a bit of mildly unnerving climbing though crumbly quartzite before and after the crack.
This could be done as one or two pitches (or even three, although that'd be kind of silly).
Start from either the end of the second pitch of Lord of the Slings or the end of Wizardly Way. Walk across and climb up to the first bolt at the bottom of the final headwall and clip it with a double-length sling. Head up and left, following a line of four bolts though crumbly, white and yellowish quartzite. After getting past a sharp horn you'll reach a set of ring anchors. You can stop here, or, more likely, continue up to the crack proper.
Follow the crack, placing protection as needed while climbing up the corner (mostly stemming). At the top of the corner head a bit left and up to some chain anchors. Once again, you can stop here, or continue up.
There are three more bolts leading through some truly frightening, broken quartzite. Be careful what you grab. There is a location or two for supplemental protection that might make you feel a little better.
At the top of the buttress on a flat ledge you'll find two bolts for an anchor.