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Routes in Trilogy Buttress

Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 131 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A fairly fun gear route in a location with great views and exposure. Requires a bit of mildly unnerving climbing though crumbly quartzite before and after the crack.

This could be done as one or two pitches (or even three, although that'd be kind of silly).

Start from either the end of the second pitch of Lord of the Slings or the end of Wizardly Way. Walk across and climb up to the first bolt at the bottom of the final headwall and clip it with a double-length sling. Head up and left, following a line of four bolts though crumbly, white and yellowish quartzite. After getting past a sharp horn you'll reach a set of ring anchors. You can stop here, or, more likely, continue up to the crack proper.

Follow the crack, placing protection as needed while climbing up the corner (mostly stemming). At the top of the corner head a bit left and up to some chain anchors. Once again, you can stop here, or continue up.

There are three more bolts leading through some truly frightening, broken quartzite. Be careful what you grab. There is a location or two for supplemental protection that might make you feel a little better.

At the top of the buttress on a flat ledge you'll find two bolts for an anchor.

Location

On the left side of the main Trilogy headwall, this line follows the corner up past the column that sticks out from the headwall.

Protection

If done as one pitch: 9 bolts, cams equivalent to C4 #.75 through #4. Doubles in #3 and #4 might be nice. Two-bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Alex Marsden
Utah
 
Alex Marsden   Utah
 
Pretty chossy and pretty rope draggy if that is a word. I would suggest doing a walk off. We got our rope stuck twice and did a little damage to the sheath. Fun climb but definitely walk off. Aug 31, 2013
Darren Knezek
  5.6
Darren Knezek  
  5.6
Just like Tristan, I enjoyed this climb also. Was really surprised on how good the rock was for this pitch. Pretty and quite water-worn. I thought that this pitch was really worth bringing a gear rack. May 30, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.7
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.7
I was pleasantly surprised by this route, and I'll probably do it again. When I did it, I did it in two pitches, belaying at the small ledge just before the crack proper. Rope drag was getting bad so I figured I'd stop.

In the crack, I just remember thinking that a couple #4s would have been great, but all I had was a #3 and I survived. There are smaller horizontal cracks that you can get gear in if you don't have anything bigger. May 30, 2010