Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 1,220 total · 7/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A loose, dirty crack that would actually be a fair amount of fun if cleaned up.

Start in the gully just below (to the right of) the bolted line Nine in Black. Scramble/climb up ten or fifteen feet to a sloping ledge to where it starts to make sense to put in some protection. Continue up the crack, mostly using edges on the face and placing pro where it makes sense. Use care in selecting holds, because there is a lot of loose stuff.

After passing though the chossiest, dirtiest sections, a larger corner crack opens up that allows a bit of liebacking. Shortly thereafter, the crack heads left under a roof. Traverse left, following the crack until you can join up with the bolt line from Nine in Black. Head for the anchors.

Location Suggest change

After reaching the lower, south-facing buttress containing the original, 5.6 first pitch of Lord of the Slings, continue around to the left looking for a bolted line on the wall to your right. To the right of the bolted line is a dirty crack with a fair amount of vegetation to the crack's right, and a bit of vegetation in the crack itself. The crack runs up and then breaks left under a roof.

Protection Suggest change

Draws/slings for two or three bolts, plus the equivalent of #.5, #.75, 2x #1, 2x #2, 2x #3, 2x #4 C4s, plus slings. A couple of large nuts might come in handy as well.