Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Routes in Trilogy Buttress
|Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Jim and Christian Knight|
|Page Views:||568 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on May 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA loose, dirty crack that would actually be a fair amount of fun if cleaned up.
Start in the gully just below (to the right of) the bolted line Nine in Black. Scramble/climb up ten or fifteen feet to a sloping ledge to where it starts to make sense to put in some protection. Continue up the crack, mostly using edges on the face and placing pro where it makes sense. Use care in selecting holds, because there is a lot of loose stuff.
After passing though the chossiest, dirtiest sections, a larger corner crack opens up that allows a bit of liebacking. Shortly thereafter, the crack heads left under a roof. Traverse left, following the crack until you can join up with the bolt line from Nine in Black. Head for the anchors.