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Routes in Trilogy Buttress

Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 568 total, 6/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 29, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A loose, dirty crack that would actually be a fair amount of fun if cleaned up.

Start in the gully just below (to the right of) the bolted line Nine in Black. Scramble/climb up ten or fifteen feet to a sloping ledge to where it starts to make sense to put in some protection. Continue up the crack, mostly using edges on the face and placing pro where it makes sense. Use care in selecting holds, because there is a lot of loose stuff.

After passing though the chossiest, dirtiest sections, a larger corner crack opens up that allows a bit of liebacking. Shortly thereafter, the crack heads left under a roof. Traverse left, following the crack until you can join up with the bolt line from Nine in Black. Head for the anchors.

Location

After reaching the lower, south-facing buttress containing the original, 5.6 first pitch of Lord of the Slings, continue around to the left looking for a bolted line on the wall to your right. To the right of the bolted line is a dirty crack with a fair amount of vegetation to the crack's right, and a bit of vegetation in the crack itself. The crack runs up and then breaks left under a roof.

Protection

Draws/slings for two or three bolts, plus the equivalent of #.5, #.75, 2x #1, 2x #2, 2x #3, 2x #4 C4s, plus slings. A couple of large nuts might come in handy as well.

Photos

Darren Knezek
5.6 PG13
Darren Knezek  
5.6 PG13
I really liked this pitch and would give it a lot of stars if it was cleaned a lot better. Mostly a really cool hand crack that gobbles up 2.5" cams. There's not much like it, in all of Rock Canyon.
I believe Jim and Christian are the FA's. May 30, 2010