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Routes in Cays 3

Boardwalk, The T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Don't Shoot, I'm Climbing T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Last Mango In Paris S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Fish T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown D S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown H T,S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Unknown I T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown J T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Sport, 105 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pomtier and A. Pon
Page Views: 129 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route that ascends a slab and then fires over the right side of the roof above. It can be done in 1 or 2 pitches. I suspect that P2 was placed after P1 was done.

P1. There are 2 starts to this slab, the left side is harder, 5.7. Starting slightly right of the 1st bolts makes the pitch go at probably 5.6. Continue up very pleasant, clean rock to a 2 bolt anchor below the roof. Note, it's easy to miss the 5th bolt.

P2. Step up and easily clip the bolt over the little roof. Figure out how to get your feet up. Now, just do it. Ascend easier terrain past 3 more bolts to the 2 bolt anchor on the left. Note, if you find the roof too strenuous, you can clip the 1st bolt above the roof, move right and carefully traverse in above the crux on chickenheads.

You can rap to the left with a 60m rope or use 2 rappels to the base.

Location

This goes up a slab to the right side of the roof.

Protection

5 bolts for P1, 3 bolts for P2. Both belays are set up for rappel.

Photos

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