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Routes in Cays 3

Boardwalk, The T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Don't Shoot, I'm Climbing T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Last Mango In Paris S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trundle Fish T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown D S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown H T,S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Unknown I T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Unknown J T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Pomtier and A. Pons?
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is the line that goes out the roof that draws your eye as you inspect the crag. It is surprisingly easier than it looks, since it's all jugs. You can do this in 1 or 2 pitches. Perhaps the 2nd pitch was added later, since the 1st bolt has rust, but the upper bolts do not.

Fire up a slightly gritty slab past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor for an optional belay. The 4th bolt (1st of P2) seems odd to clip, since it is so low on the overhang and may not protect your ankles should you slip at the most inopportune of times. Traverse in from the right on jugs just below the roof. The next bolt is just over the lip. Pull over on big holds that can get a bit greasy on a sunny day.


This goes up the slab and out the middle of the overhang.


3 bolts on P1. 3-4 bolts on P2 with an optional small wire or tiny cam if you ignore the last bolt that could be shared with the route to the right. 2 bolt anchor that is rappable with a chain and a Fixe ring.