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Routes in Cays 1

Unknown A T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown C T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Pomtier and A. Pons?
Page Views: 49 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a pleasant romp up low-angled, fairly featured slab with a couple colorful, homemade hangers. The crux is probably before the first bolt. There are enough bolts on first pass to consider it a sport climb; however, the 5.6 leader would have groundfall potential without supplemental gear.

To descend, walkoff to the right and down a groove/ramp or around the backside.

Location

This is the bolted line just to the left of the groove.

Protection

4 bolts. You may be able to fiddle in a cam between bolt 1 and 2 to avoid groundfall potential. The anchor consists of 2 bolts, one with an open cold shut and a second with a homemade hanger (which has since been replaced) that makes it suboptimal for rappel.

Photos

Dale Haas and I braved bullets to replace the homemade hangers on this climb with SS Fixe. We also replaced the homemade hanger on the lone anchor bolt climber's left of the anchor. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware for this project, though I am not sure the gear was NRA-approved. Jul 10, 2015