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Routes in Cays 1

Unknown A T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown C T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: Pomtier and A. Pons?
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is curious route with some eclectic hardware that draws your eye if you happen to be in the vicinity. It hops over 2 bulges.

Get situated onto the slab below a bolt with a homemade hanger with a delicate move (perhaps the crux). You can get a yellow TCU/Alien to protect the pull over the first overlap. Move up to the second overlap and fiddle in a big nut or small hex. Reach over and clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pull a balancy left hand layback with a left foot smear (done this way, this is the crux) or move left on easier terrain. A devilishly tall climber might just latch onto that tempting jug up and right of the 3rd bolt, but the average height climber's desire will be unfulfilled without a dyno. Continue up to a pair of bolts, one of which has a chain and the other is a odd homemade hanger.

Walkoff right and down a ramp or around the back.


This line fires up over 2 overlaps. It has an eye catching homemade hanger (which has since been replaced) on the first bolt.


3 bolts, yellow TCU/Alien, big wire or small hex.


Dale Haas and I luckily survived from being shot while replacing the one homemade hanger at the start and the two homemade hangers at the anchor with Fixe SS. The American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA provided the hardware, but unfortunately not bullet-proof vests, for this project. Jul 9, 2015

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