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Routes in Cays 1

Unknown A T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown C T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: Pomtier and A. Pons?
Page Views: 42 total, 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is curious route with some eclectic hardware that draws your eye if you happen to be in the vicinity. It hops over 2 bulges.

Get situated onto the slab below a bolt with a homemade hanger with a delicate move (perhaps the crux). You can get a yellow TCU/Alien to protect the pull over the first overlap. Move up to the second overlap and fiddle in a big nut or small hex. Reach over and clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pull a balancy left hand layback with a left foot smear (done this way, this is the crux) or move left on easier terrain. A devilishly tall climber might just latch onto that tempting jug up and right of the 3rd bolt, but the average height climber's desire will be unfulfilled without a dyno. Continue up to a pair of bolts, one of which has a chain and the other is a odd homemade hanger.

Walkoff right and down a ramp or around the back.

Location

This line fires up over 2 overlaps. It has an eye catching homemade hanger (which has since been replaced) on the first bolt.

Protection

3 bolts, yellow TCU/Alien, big wire or small hex.

Photos

Dale Haas and I luckily survived from being shot while replacing the one homemade hanger at the start and the two homemade hangers at the anchor with Fixe SS. The American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware, but unfortunately not bullet-proof vests, for this project. Jul 9, 2015