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Routes in Donkey Punch Area

Chinese Gangfight V5 6C
Cleveland Steamer V6 7A
Dirty Friction V4 6B
Donkey Punch V6 7A
Dope Lounge V5 6C PG13
Extreme Problem, The V4 6B
Farmboy Dyno V9 7C
Green Mile Direct V9 7C
Guns in Bars V6-7 7A+
Gym Wall Center V4 6B
Hidden Dragon V6 7A
Huck Finn V3 6A PG13
Icy Mike V2-3 5+
Iron Monkey V2-3 5+
Las Furias V4-5 6B+
Mother Approved V8 7B PG13
Slab, The V6 7A
Stables Away! V2+ 5+
Upper Tanker V5 6C
slab variation V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Colin Cox
Page Views: 3,334 total, 37/month
Shared By: Andrew Ryder on May 27, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Fragile Sandstone: Don't Climb Wet Rock Details

Description

Brilliant! Packs a punch all the way to the end. Start on the right side of a crack and slap through the roof, heading right with big spans and lots of tension (the left side of the crack is off.) Match the decent edges over the lip, then head back left on a crimp rail to reach a rounded jug. Pull sloping edges through the upper bulge to stand on the rounded jug. Walk it out (carefully - the hillside above is steep and slippery.)

(As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. Makes sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.)

Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.

Location

Down the canyon between the Trailer Park and Dope Lounge areas, on the right side, look for the radical chalk-covered feature.

Protection

Pads (a few are sure nice) and spotters

Photos

dave rosen
  V9-
dave rosen  
  V9-
Super awesome problem! Definitely not a 10, though. Also agree that it's not PG-13. Landing is easily protectable and top out is very reasonable. Jul 15, 2017
Robin Daugherty  
  V9
Pat, it looks like about half of the crimp rail broke off on the right side; probably means your beta won't work anymore. The problem still goes; I think most will just dead point from the block out left and the good part of the sloping rail right up to the lip (huge swing, highlight of the problem for me).

Also, I think the PG 13 might be a stretch. I fell from the head wall and missed my pad with no injury. With a pad in the right place it's pretty safe. Jul 17, 2015
Colin Cox  
 
In 2000 it was about v6. Nov 8, 2011
What's the grade of the original Green Mile? Oct 23, 2011
Pat Mac
Tempe
  V9-10 PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  V9-10 PG13
I heard that the right hand crimp broke off? Is this true? Jul 27, 2011
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  V6-7
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  V6-7
I think if this problem is done the way it is described here, you may be using some tunnel vision. There is defiantly other beta for this problem. There is an obvious left hand hold that allows you to stay squared up with the line. Your left hand never needs to touch a hold on the right side. Still not using the rock to the left of the crack either.

Really fun compression bouldering! Jul 8, 2011
m.qaden.everett  
  V8+
eliminate = automatically disqualified as 'one of the best' of az. still very fun tho. Jun 25, 2011
Pat Mac
Tempe
  V9-10 PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  V9-10 PG13
This is my beta for this thing. Amazing problem.

vimeo.com/24846466 Jun 8, 2011
Pat Mac
Tempe
  V9-10 PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  V9-10 PG13
Sent Last Sunday. First double digit! Found some good beta for us smaller guys, made it possible for me. Nice route though! Beautiful line! And it gets shade all day so the rock is nice and cool for a burn! Jun 6, 2011
Colin Cox  
 
This problem is rad, but was better before the crimp broke down in the start. I'm just bitter cuz I got the F.A. and now I can't do it. Sep 2, 2010
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  V9
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  V9
this is one of the best boulder problems that i've ever seen!

highly recommended... very difficult, and requires a lot of figuring (and falling) if it is near your limit.

maybe it's because i did it in the summer--and on a humid day at that--but i feel more inclined to call this one v10.. but what do i know! i'll be interested to see how it feels on a crisp, dry, and cool fall day! Jul 17, 2010