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Routes in 2. The Bird's Nest

Old Dad Line T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raspberry Jam T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Romancing The Stone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sea Of Green T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shaft of Light T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Drew Spaulding, Mariah Freesen-2008, FFA-Zach Holtzman-2011
Page Views: 104 total · 1/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on May 27, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start up behind the long-needled pine on the right side of the Bird's Nest. Climb steep cracks (2-3 gear placements) up to the bolted crux through the large, dramatic roof (5.11b). Continue past 11 more bolts (5.10) to the 2-bolt chained anchor. This is the Gem up on the Bird's Nest! Clean, compact, glacially polished granite!

Protection

Except for the 2-3 placements to start this pitch, bolts protect the remaining 95'. A 70m rope (or 2 ropes) and 14 quickdraws are needed! 2-bolt chained anchor for descent.

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nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
Great job on this route, wonderfully clean, solid rock. I pulled the move over the roof before I could clip that third bolt, so I ended up just skipping it. I'm not sure if there is a way to clip it before pulling the roof or not, but I couldn't seem to reach it. For me, this doesn't take away from the climb, but a fall here with out clipping that third bolt could hurt. Maybe I missed/ overlooked something. Either way I enjoyed the route, and I like committing moves, so thanks for equipping this route. Jun 21, 2015
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks, Nate! I think I make the clip from the razor hold over the lip.... Sharp, crimpy, powerful and balancy! Wild roof for sure with a bit of a run out above.... You definitely want to clip that 3rd bolt before busting past it!!! Nice job! Must've been scary! Jun 24, 2015

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