Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Drew Spaulding, John Slezak- 2006
Page Views: 141 total · 1/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on May 26, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is the leftmost route off of the Bird's Nest ledge. Start up the moderate, ramping corner and climb obvious cracks(5.9) up into the "squeeze box" slot above. Above the slot, the crack becomes thin and challenging (10b-thin cams recommended). Climb straight up the left-facing corner up to a ledge, and then clip 1 bolt (5.9+) to finish the face moves before finding the 2-bolt anchor. There is an old fixed pin out to the left near the top of this pitch leading toward moderate terrain.... Some "Old Dad" had definitely been up the "squeeze box" before? We pushed the route up and right with the 1-bolt finish....


A standard rack and a 70m rope are necessary for this pitch. There is only 1 bolt in 120'! Some loose feeling sections are encountered, but it is still a great pitch. 15 quickdraws are recommended. Lowering to the Bird's Nest is tricky even with a 70m rope, but you can do it by down climbing the "moderate, ramping corner".... Take care! You can also lower down to the anchor at the top of "Raspberry Jam" (60m rope possible), then rappel from there.


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